Should I replace my WiFi router? Parts 1 and 2

This was originally published as two columns. I am maintaining that separation here.

Part 1: What are the parts

A quick addendum to last week’s column on price tracking and deal sites – here’s a site you can check for Black Friday ads – https://www.cnet.com/tech/black-friday-ad-scans/. There are many more – search for Black Friday ads 2022

What’s this week’s topic? Recently a reader asked me how often he should think about replacing his WiFi router (Hi, Fred!). There’s no hard and fast rule but there are some things to consider.

First, we need to give names to the various components that exist between your Internet Service Provider (ISP) and your device (phone, tablet, laptop, whatever). The “modem” is the device that actually connects you to the Internet via your ISP. Next is the “router” which directs traffic, sending/receiving data to/from the correct device/website/etc. Lastly, the Wireless Access Point or WAP. This is the component that your devices connect to. These components can be combined: you may have a modem that includes a router, or you might have a modem that includes a router and a WAP, or you may have a router that contains a WAP.

Most ISPs provide a modem/router/WAP all in one box but you may have 1, 2 or 3 separate boxes as I’ve outlined above. If your ISP provided you with all of that as a single box or as multiple boxes then your path is fairly simple. Run a speed test (by going to, for example, https://fast.com/ or https://www.speedtest.net/) from several devices that are connected to your ISP’s WiFi and compare those speeds with what your ISP says you should be getting. They probably won’t be identical but they should be in the same ballpark of each other and your ISP’s stated rate. If your ISP says you’re paying for 10Mbps (10 megabits per second) and your devices are getting 8Mbps then you’re in the ballpark. Note that phones and tablets will often transfer data more slowly than laptops so if your laptop is getting 8Mbps but your phone is only getting 6Mbps you can rest assured that your WiFi is capable of transmitting data faster than your phone can handle it. If you’re in the ballpark then you’re good! But keep reading because there are more goodies in here. But, if your highest speed is consistently much less than what you’re paying for, contact your ISP and discuss it with them. Perhaps they have an upgraded device to replace component(s) that you have.

How fast should your Internet connection be? Check https://go.ttot.link/HowFast for info on what speeds you’ll need to stream. For example, Netflix HD content needs 5Mbps while 4K Ultra HD content needs 25Mbps – and that’s just for one stream. If someone else will be streaming at the same time as you, you’ll need a higher bandwidth. If your Internet provider can’t get you those speeds then you won’t be able to reliably stream those things without stuttering or buffering (and you won’t be happy). If you can get or have those speeds from your ISP but you have a device that isn’t capable of those speeds then you can’t use that device to stream that particular content.

If your ISP provides just the modem (i,e. the device to connect to the Internet) but you have to provide your own router/WiFi then you should go through the same steps to get an idea of the speed available to you. If your WiFi is consistently not reaching anywhere near the speeds you’re paying your ISP for then you may need to upgrade your router and/or your WiFi. All routers and most WiFi routers have Ethernet ports (see https://go.ttot.link/EthernetPorts) If your router and WiFi are provided by separate devices (that is you have both a router and a WAP) then try to connect to your router with a cable (an Ethernet cable – see https://go.ttot.link/EthernetCable) and see what speeds you get. If your speeds are much closer to your ISP’s rated speeds then it’s probably time to upgrade your WiFi WAP. If your speeds are much lower than your ISP’s rated speeds then it’s time to upgrade your router. And if you have a router and a WAP as separate boxes and your tests indicate you should replace either of them you may want to consider combining them and get a WiFi router.

Say your tests indicate that you should replace your WiFi (WAP or WiFi router). What should you replace it with? There are a crazy lot of options available to you today. WiFi 6, mesh, extenders…what does it all mean? We’ll cover that next week.

Part 2: Different types of WiFi

Last week we covered the hardware components that sit between your device (phone, tablet, etc) and the Internet. This week we’ll cover WiFi – the terms and concepts you should know if you’re considering replacing your WiFi.

First, if you are considering replacing your WAP (Wireless Access Point) let me suggest that you replace it with a WiFI router. WAPs tend to be used in business settings and require more technical knowledge to select, install, and maintain than a WiFi router. While I’m usually in favor of discrete components because they give you the ability to upgrade the individual components separately when needed, in this case the additional knowledge required is just too great.

Now, let’s dig into some of the terms you’ll encounter when looking for a good WiFi router.

2.4GHz and 5GHz – these numbers relate to the frequency spectrum that the WiFi can occupy but, more importantly for our purposes, defines what kind of connection the WiFi router can accept. Pretty much all devices (e.g. phones, tablets) made in the last few years have hardware in them that works with both 2.4GHz and 5GHz so they can utilize either of those two bands. And all newer routers have both 2.4 and 5GHz capabilities (known as “dual band” routers). Why is it important that they have both? Well, 2 reasons: 1) a lot of devices use the 2.4GHz spectrum (microwaves, garage door openers, security cameras) so there’s a higher probability of interference so the ability to use 5GHz lets you sidestep that problem and 2) many “smart” devices (light bulbs, switches, etc) only have hardware that works with 2.4GHz (hardware that works with both frequencies costs more and can push the cost of the smart devices higher). What’s the difference between the 2 spectra? 2.4GHz is slower than 5GHz but its signal reaches farther. In a larger house the 2.4GHz signal may reach to all corners of the house whereas the 5GHz signal may only reach a few rooms away from the WiFi router. You can read more about speeds and distances at https://go.ttot.link/2.4vs5GHz.

WiFi routers that can do both 2.4GHz and 5GHz can often be configured to present a different SSID (see https://go.ttot.link/SSID) for the 2.4GHz and the 5Ghz bands. It’s a matter of personal preference whether you use the same or different SSID for the two bands. But be aware that some older devices that only support 2.4GHz can’t handle that. If you choose to use the same SSID for both bands then be on the lookout for devices that no longer work – you might need to use different SSIDs in that case.

WiFi 6 (as opposed to WiFi 5). You may see this in your research. WiFi 5 is the current standard. WiFi 6 is a new standard that increases speeds, not only the speed to your individual device but also the overall speed of all connected devices (i.e. aggregate speed). There’s a lot of technical detail that goes into this but suffice it to say that there’s only so much data in aggregate that you can send/receive over a wireless connection. WiFi 6 significantly increases that limit. Newer phones and tablets released, say, within the last 6 months, may have WiFi 6 but if you have an older device that doesn’t support WiFi 6, don’t worry as WiFi 6 WiFi routers also support WiFi 5. WiFi 6 routers cost more right now but s the technology matures the cost will come down. If you can afford a WiFi 6 router, get it but don’t worry a lot if it’s too expensive. Even if you get a device with WiFi 6, it will still work with your WiFi 5 router.

WiFi extenders. These have been around for quite a while but have mostly been replaced by mesh networks which provide the same benefits but are easier to set up. Read about mesh routers and use them instead.

Mesh. Mesh routers effectively extend the reach of your WiFi signal. If you’ve got a larger home or if you need your signal to reach areas that it doesn’t currently reach (e.g. garage or workshop), consider mesh. Mesh routers come with at least 2 units that are essentially identical. One acts as your base unit and router attaching to your modem and the other(s), placed at some distance from the base, connect wirelessly to the base, extending your WiFi signal. They communicate with each other and both broadcast the same SSID(s). They work together to ensure you remain connected by handing off your connection between themselves as you move around. One thing to consider is their “backhaul.” This is the connection they make between themselves so that your data can flow from your device out to the Internet and back. Lower cost mesh routers use your spectrum for that data flow while more expensive ones use their own frequencies to move that data, keeping your spectrum available for your device’s data.

That’s it for this week. To sum up, try to get a WiFi router as opposed to a standalone WAP, go with WiFi 6 if you can afford it, get a dual band (2.4GHz and 5GHz) WiFi router, and get a mesh WiFi router if you want or need to cover a larger area than is currently covered.

I hope you’ve gotten some ideas for how and when to replace your WiFi router and what to look for in terms of speed and features. Let me know what you’d like to discuss next week.

As always, my intent is to help you understand the basics and equip you to search for more detailed information.

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